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Found 2 results

  1. Day 8: Chamonix

    Much as we enjoyed yesterday's walk, once we were partway through it we realised that it might have been better to do it in the opposite direction, because then we would have been walking towards the view of the snowy mountains rather than away from it. When we were discussing last night what we wanted to do today, we kept coming back to the same idea of repeating the walk again Of course, it all depended on what the weather was going to be like... There had been heavy thunderstorms throughout the previous evening, but luckily when we woke up this morning and went out onto the balcony, we could see that there was a bright blue sky again. We'd caved in and decided to eat breakfast in the hotel, so we headed to the breakfast room to see what it was possible to get for €13.00. To be honest, it looked like a fairly average breakfast buffet! There was bread and croissants, ham and cheese, some scrambled egg and a bit of fruit; pretty much what you would expect from any hotel. I made several trips to the buffet to try and get my money's worth. The coffee was good at least Once we had eaten as much as we could we set off to walk to the bottom of the Flégère cable car, which we would be using to go up the mountain today rather than down. We left our hotel and crossed the river, which was looking particularly scary this morning! As we walked we could just see up to the top of the cable car station where we were headed... ...and when we turned around, we could also just make out the one that we would be walking to. The cable car was quite busy this morning and we only just about managed to squeeze in. We were rather squashed, but at least had a better trip than one French lady in the middle of the cable car who must have been terrified of heights, and so spent the entire ride burying her head in her husband so that she couldn't see anything and swearing loudly every time the cable car swayed We were soon at the top and ready to set off on our walk. As soon as we started off down the path, we had a wonderful view down the valley towards Chamonix. We were soon to find though that some bits of the walk were easier in some directions than in others. In particular, I was worried about a steep set of steps carved into the side of the mountain, which had been difficult enough to climb up yesterday and seemed like they might be even harder to climb down. We soon arrived there and I found to my horror that the steps were even worse than I thought, because the rain overnight had made the wooden bits quite slippery. Let's just say I didn't particularly enjoy the climb down! The worst bit was near the bottom, where you had to negotiate these two strange metallic steps! Eventually I made it down in one piece and was able to enjoy the views again The respite was only short-lived though, because before too long we were approaching the rocky part of the path once again. And it really was rocky... ...very, very rocky! The rocks didn't last forever though, and the advantage of doing the walk in this direction was that we had got the most difficult bit out of the way at the start, and were able to relax for the rest of the walk. There were fewer clouds in the sky today than yesterday, so we were finally able to see the top of Mont Blanc And we had an unrestricted view of most of the other mountains as well. It was definitely worthwhile to repeat the route and always be walking with the snow ahead of us Because we'd done the walk before, we were pretty sure that we would recognise the route without any problems. There were some bits I didn't remember though, like the point at which the path went round this rather scary corner! We seemingly also didn't remember the point at which we were supposed to have turned off this wide path onto a narrower one. Somehow we missed the correct sign and ended up walking quite a long way downhill, on a path which was wide enough to be a road. By the time we realised our mistake, we were too far down for it to be worth retracing our steps. We could see that the wide path would ultimately lead back uphill towards the gondola station at Planpraz, so the best option was to stick with it. It did give us a different perspective on where we'd been... ...and actually some better views of the snow than we would have had from the original path Although in places it was quite steep, we couldn't complain when we turned corners and had views like this When we got to the gondola station, we stopped at the cafe for a drink. The views from the cafe terrace were pretty impressive too. Then it was time to go back down to Chamonix in the gondolas. We had a go at taking a selfie with the view on the way down, but I think maybe we need more practice When we reached the bottom, it was fun to look back up at where we had been. Then we set off through Chamonix in search of a place to have lunch. Tim was very impressed with his steak After lunch we explored the town a bit more. It's a really pretty little place... ...completely surrounded by the mountains. As we began walking back to our hotel along the valley, we realised that we now had a complete overview of the route we had walked. It was impressive to be able to see both the start and end points from down below. As we got nearer to the hotel, I realised that there was something unusual about this afternoon; it wasn't pouring with rain yet! After a bit of a rest in the hotel, we decided to take advantage of the unexpectedly good weather by having an evening stroll around the forests behind where we were staying. It was a nice relaxing end to what has been a brilliant holiday. Tomorrow morning we will be getting a bus from Chamonix to Annecy, and then changing in Annecy for a bus which will take us directly to Lyon airport. From Lyon we will fly back to Birmingham, via another stop in Brussels. It will be a long day of travelling to get home again, but it has definitely been worth it
  2. On Thursday it was time for us to leave Chambéry and move on to the final destination of this holiday: Chamonix. When we were looking at the map and planning the holiday, we initially thought it would be quite easy to travel between Chambéry and Chamonix by train. When I eventually got around to looking at the timetables in more detail, however, it soon became clear that it would be anything but! Most of the options I found took around 6 hours and involved multiple changes of train, including travelling via Switzerland. I was on the verge of giving up on the idea of visiting Chamonix at all, when I came upon the website of the French bus company, Ouibus. Ouibus seemed to have a good network of buses in this part of France, including a line between Annecy and Chamonix, and the prices were quite reasonable. Best of all, it was really easy to book tickets online on their website, and they also had an app you could install to get what you'd purchased as an e-ticket on your mobile The only downside was that there were only a handful of buses between Annecy and Chamonix every day, with the most convenient one not departing Annecy until 15.50. We therefore had a rather relaxed start to Thursday morning in Chambéry first of all, before taking a regional train to Annecy. We arrived just on time for lunch, which we ate in a restaurant not far from the station, where I was delighted to find that they had Flammkuchen on the menu! We stretched out lunch for as long as we could, because it wasn't possible to have much of a walk around Annecy with our cases. Finally it was time to head to the bus station; we wanted to be there quite a long time before the bus was due to depart, because there were all sorts of dire warnings when booking with Ouibus about making sure you were ready to board the bus at least 15 minutes in advance of the departure time. I was a bit sceptical about whether the bus would actually be at the bus station 15 minutes ahead of the departure time, but it proved me wrong and it was There was a bit of messing about before we were able to board, because the driver handed everyone a baggage label which we were supposed to fill out our names and addresses on. But despite that we set off on time, and the only downside was that people seemed to be taking the Montenegrin approach of not sitting in their assigned seats Luckily there were plenty of spare seats on the bus, so that wasn't a problem. It was a pleasant journey as we left Annecy and headed towards Chamonix. The closer we got, the more mountainous the scenery became, until we got our first glimpses of the snow-covered peaks in the distance. The bus took us through some tunnels and over a very impressive road bridge. Finally we were there Chamonix is another place where accommodation is ridiculously expensive and so the only way we could afford to come here was to stay in a 2-star hotel a couple of kilometres outside the town. I had been contemplating whether we ought to take a taxi, but it seemed to be a nice evening when we arrived, so we decided to give walking a go instead. We'd made it about halfway there when a very threatening cloud appeared - seemingly out of nowhere - and the heavens opened. We took refuge in a nearby bar to avoid getting completely drenched. Luckily the shower was only a brief one and once it was over, the rain held off again until we were almost at the door of the hotel. The hotel turned out to be really nice; the room was basic, but it has a very Alpine feel with lots of wood-panelling Unexpectedly, we found we had a little balcony, and although the highest mountains were covered in clouds by this point, it was still a great view The rain seemed to have eased off a bit while we were settling into the hotel, so we decided to try and walk back into the town and pick up some supplies. Rather than walking alongside the main road, we found a path which ran parallel to it through the forest. It was a lovely path, but unfortunately the further we got along it, the darker the clouds become, until we started to feel the first drops of rain. The sky looked so threatening that we decided we'd better give up and go back to the hotel instead. It turned out to be a wise decision; no sooner had we got back then there was an enormous storm, with thunder, lightning and torrential rain. We went to bed hoping that the weather would be better in the morning! Fortunately, when we woke up on Friday the weather was indeed better, although the forecast suggested that it would only stay dry until around lunchtime. The view from our balcony definitely looked a lot brighter We were eager to make a start to the day but before we could go anywhere there was one small problem to resolve; breakfast. It was possible to get breakfast at the hotel, but the price was €13 each which was way beyond what we would deem an acceptable breakfast price to be. There are no shops anywhere around the hotel, so our only other option was to walk into Chamonix. I'm not ordinarily a fan of leaving the house before breakfast... and definitely not without a cup of coffee... but if you do have to take a walk to look for breakfast then this is definitely a very scenic one to take. I think I look remarkably cheerful given how hungry I was Eventually we made it to the town. It was around 08:30 by this point and so our next challenge was that some of the places which looked like they might serve breakfast weren't even open yet! Out of the places which met the criteria of having a breakfast menu and actually being open, we were surprised to find that €12 or €13 actually seemed to quite a popular price to charge. Oh dear In the end we did find a cafe where we were able to have what was described as a "French breakfast" for €6.90. This included a coffee, a glass of orange juice, a slice of French stick and a croissant. It was nice, but by the time we'd finished we felt like we could have eaten a second one. Perhaps it might be easier to pay for breakfast in the hotel tomorrow after all...! Once breakfast was complete, we had a little stroll around the centre of Chamonix. We found the church... ...the tourist information office... ...and the town hall. We walked up a road behind the church to the base station of a gondola, which would take us up to a place called Planpraz at around 2,000m. There are lots of cable cars around Chamonix, but this one had come to my attention when I was doing my holiday research primarily because it was comparatively cheap. Some of the cable cars are horrifically expensive, but this one was only €14 to go up, which when you consider that breakfast can cost €13 seemed like very good value. I had then found a walk we could do for a couple of hours along the side of the valley, coming down on a different cable car closer to our hotel. When we arrived at the base station and Tim started to buy the tickets, we realised that the prices were actually even better than we thought. For €17.70 we could buy a round trip ticket, which would enable us to go up this cable car and down the other one. That was definitely good value! We didn't have to go far once we got to the top of the gondola to get some amazing views. We set off on the walk.... ...but it was difficult to get very far because we kept having to stop to admire the view. On a completely clear day it should be possible to see the summit of Mont Blanc from here, but unfortunately today it was just hidden by the white cloud. We realised belatedly that it might actually have been better to do this walk in the opposite direction, as the path was leading us away from the views of the biggest glaciers. It was still beautiful, though. The walk started off quite easy, but as we progressed further the terrain became a bit rockier. We had to pay more attention to where we were putting our feet, but every time we turned a corner the views were breath-taking. We continued onwards for a while... ...and were soon at the halfway point of the walk, from where we could see back down the valley to Chamonix. The views to the opposite side of the valley were still amazing.... ...but we also had good views up to the rocky mountains above us on our own side of the valley. We passed some enormous rocks... ...and we soon came to a slightly disturbing sign, which warned us not to linger for too long on this part of the path as there was a danger of falling rocks! The path was indeed quite difficult to traverse here... ...and once we'd got safely across, we could look back and see that it had indeed taken us across quite a large scree slope. After this the path became a bit less rocky, but I was puzzled by the fact that we could hear intermittent shouts and screams from somewhere above us. Eventually we caught up with another English couple who had passed us earlier, and they pointed out that there were people climbing on the rocky pinnacles above us, and that there was also a zip wire up there. No wonder people were screaming! From here the path went a bit lower, so that we were back among the trees. We were almost at the cable car station of La Flégère. Before we caught the cable car back down to the valley, we stopped at a little mountain hut for a much-needed drink. It wasn't a bad view to sit down to The cable car down was very speedy and took us to the village of Les Praz, which is on the outskirts of the main town of Chamonix, not too far from our hotel. After our slightly sparse breakfast we were starving by this point, so we went into the first restaurant we found. It turned out to be more expensive than the restaurants we would normally eat in, but we had a very nice meal and some wine When we emerged from the restaurant we realised that the sky had completely clouded over and it looked like storms were about to break out again. We hurried back to the hotel as fast as we could and just about managed to avoid getting drenched. It was a brilliant day, and we definitely managed to make the most of the good weather while it lasted
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