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Clare

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  1. Day 9: Brindisi

    As we'd decided to go to Alberobello on Friday rather than Sunday, we still had Brindisi left to visit today. Our flight back to the UK isn't until 21.45 this evening, so we had plenty of time for a day trip. We had our final breakfast in the apartment this morning, and then the lady kindly offered to let us store our bags in her apartment for the day. This was really helpful and meant we didn't have to worry about the sometimes erratic opening hours of baggage storage facilities in Italy We caught the 10.05 train from Bari Centrale, arriving in Brindisi a little over an hour later. We didn't know a lot about Brindisi, except that it was a reasonably big port on the coast to the south of Bari, and that it has an airport which Ryanair fly to (but which never seems to have truly cheap flights). As we walked out of the train station and towards the centre of town, my first impressions based on this fountain was that it looked a bit like Podgorica! A long avenue lined with palm trees led down towards the sea. It didn't take us long to reach the port area, from where there are regular ferries to Greece and Albania. As we walked along I caught sight of what looked like a Roman column poking out from between some houses. We got a bit closer and confirmed that that was indeed what it was. The column marks the end of the ancient Via Appia (Appian Way) which was an important Roman road, linking Rome and Brindisi. We strolled along the seafront for a while, admiring the views. This tall tower in the distance is a monument to the Italian sailors who died during the First World War. In the distance at the end of the harbour we could see the Castello Svevo. This was built in the thirteenth century by Emperor Frederick II. Historically it was used as a prison, and then by the Italian navy. There appeared to be some sort of warship outside it today! The sea promenade came to an end at this point, so we turned back inland. Inside the old town we found a couple of nice churches, though none as impressive as the ones we had seen in Lecce the day before. This one is Brindisi's cathedral. Originally built in the twelfth century, it was mostly destroyed by an earthquake in 1743 and subsequently had to be completely rebuilt. It was afternoon by this point and we were quite hungry, so we set off in search of somewhere to eat. Finding somewhere to eat isn't normally a problem in Italy, but Brindisi isn't a very touristy place and it seemed strangely devoid of restaurants. We walked almost all the way to the station and back and failed to find anything at all! In the end we went into a bookshop, and Tim asked the helpful man behind the counter for advice on finding places to eat. He recommended that we go back down to the seafront and sure enough when we did, we found one place which was open and serving pizza We sat with a lovely view of the sea while I had my final pizza of the holiday and Tim had a mixed grill. By the time we had finished lunch, we thought that we had probably seen the main sights of Brindisi, but we still had a bit of time to kill before we had to be back in Bari to retrieve our suitcases and catch the train back to the airport. The Italy guidebook recommended a town called Ostuni as a good place to visit from Brindisi. This was about halfway on our journey back to Bari, so we decided to break our train trip there and see what there was to see. It didn't turn out to be a very successful excursion! While Ostuni does have a railway station, unfortunately it is located what the guidebook referred to as a twenty minute walk from the actual town itself. What the guidebook failed to mention, however, is that the station is located in something akin to an industrial estate and that the road which leads from there to the town is designed for cars more than for pedestrians. We made an attempt at walking towards the town, but ultimately had to turn back. We did get close enough to get a view of Ostuni from afar though, and it does look rather beautiful perched up on a big hill. I think it would have been quite hard work (and more than 20 minutes!) to climb all the way up to the top of it though. Having admitted defeat, we caught the train back to Bari, collected our suitcases and caught the train to the airport, where there turned out to be surprisingly good Wi-Fi, so I've been able to do a final blog We've had a really great week in Italy and seen some amazing places. The weather this far south has been absolutely perfect for October; still hot enough to walk around in shorts and t-shirts, but not so hot that we really needed to make use of air-conditioning. I can't decide whether my favourites place was Pompeii, Procida or Alberobello; all were wonderful and unique in their own ways, and I think at some point we will definitely be visiting the south of Italy again
  2. After surviving another visit from the apartment lady with our breakfast this morning, we were off to visit the city of Lecce. Lecce is located about 150km to the south of Bari, in the "heel" of Italy, and should not be confused with the town of Lecco, which we visited at the end of August. I keep getting mixed up with the names, however, including when I was trying to look up the train times between Bari and Lecce, accidentally looking up the train times between Bari and Lecco instead, and almost concluding that we couldn't do it as a day trip after all, because it was going to take six hours and cost €100 Catching the train to Lecce turned out to be more straightforward than getting the train to Alberobello yesterday, as the Lecce trains are part of the normal Italian train network run by Trenitalia. The tickets cost €10.50, which wasn't bad considering the distance involved, and the journey took roughly the same amount of time as Alberobello. We got the train from Bari at 10.05 and arrived in Lecce just before midday. We'd heard Lecce described as "the Florence of southern Italy" so I was expecting great things. The area around the train station wasn't terribly scenic, but soon we found a gate into the historic old town. Things improved from there, as we found the first of many beautiful churches This sort of Baroque architecture is what Lecce is famous for. What I didn't know is that Lecce also has some Roman remains. This is Lecce's Roman amphitheatre. It was built in the second century AD and apparently could seat 25,000 people. Only part of the amphitheatre is visible today, as other monuments were built on top of it in subsequent centuries. The amphitheatre is now situated in a large square, where there is a large column erected to Lecce's patron saint, St Oronzo. This was donated to Lecce by the citizens of Brindisi, because St Oronzo apparently cured a plague in Brindisi. Following one of the roads off the square took us towards this church, which is dedicated to St Irene. St Irene was the patron saint of Lecce until 1656, at which point she was replaced by St Oronzo due to his plague-curing success. Around the corner from St Irene's church, we got our first glimpse of Lecce's cathedral. A cathedral was first built in Lecce in 1144, undergoing significant rebuilding in 1659. The northern facade features a statue of St Oronzo. It's an enormous cathedral, and very pretty We walked a bit further from the cathedral and found ourselves leaving the old town via another impressive gate. We walked back in again, past another impressive church, on the search for a place to have lunch. Eventually we found a little restaurant where we had pizza, wine, a large bottle of water and a side order of chips for Tim, all for this price After lunch, we couldn't resist going back to admire the cathedral once again. Then we went to look for a site which sounded quite impressive on the map: the castle of Charles V. When we found it, however, it didn't quite live up to expectations! We needed to catch the 16.00 train back from Lecce towards Bari, because we had a second place we wanted to visit today: Polignano a Mare. Polignano is a small town, about half an hour from Bari by train, and we had never heard of it at all, until the lady who owns our apartment mentioned it on Friday. Or, to be more precise, she told us in no uncertain terms that we must go there, and then when bringing our breakfast this morning, demanded to know whether we had been yet! Our guidebook was strangely silent on what its charms might be, but as far as we could work out it was going to be a good place from which to take photos of the sea. It took around an hour and a half to get from Lecce to Polignano, so it was early evening by the time we arrived. First impressions were that the town looked fairly ordinary, although there was a nice gate into the old town... ...and a pleasant square in the centre of the town. We followed a series of little streets towards the sea. Eventually we got to a viewpoint from where we could see the cliffs on the edge of the town. The weather didn't seem as warm here as it had been in Lecce, and it was quite windy! The view in the opposite direction was amazing too, and showed how close the town is built to the sea. Because it was so windy, the waves were really beating against the cliffs. We walked around the town for a while and found a couple of other viewpoints from where we could admire the sea. Polignano is definitely in a spectacular location. In places it looks like the sea has eroded the rock so far that it would be quite a brave decision to live in one of these houses! The sea was particularly fierce here. The light was starting to fade by this point, so we made our way back to the train station to catch the train to Bari. Polignano was definitely worth seeing and at least when we get our breakfast tomorrow we will be able to confirm that we've been there
  3. Day 7: Alberobello

    My original plan for today had been to visit Brindisi, a coastal town further south than Bari. On Sunday before we travel home, I was then hoping that we could squeeze in a visit to an interesting little place I had read about: Alberobello. When I started doing the holiday research, however, it seemed like travelling to Alberobello on a Sunday was going to be a complete nightmare, with no trains running and buses being few and far between. So we decided to change things around and go to Alberobello today instead The day got off to a slightly stressful start as we needed to make sure we were up and dressed for the time our breakfast was due to be delivered. This was supposed to be at 08.30 and we were ready on time, but nothing happened. We waited, and eventually at 08.45 the owner of the apartment turned up with a big tray of croissants, cereal and yoghurt. She also gave Tim a tirade of advice in Italian about all the places we should visit, followed by unclear instructions about what we should do with the tray once we'd finished eating, before vanishing. On the whole I think it might just have been simpler if we could have bought our own breakfast! But the croissants were delicious and full of Nutella The trains to Alberobello aren't terribly frequent even when they are running and so we were aiming for a train at 10.45. We left the apartment with plenty of time to spare to walk to the main train station, which is only 1.5km away, but still nearly ended up missing the train. First of all we struggled to walk down the last portion of the road in front of the station, because there was a loud and noisy student protest taking place. We couldn't work out what was going on, but later read on the news that they were on strike over unpaid work experience. When we finally got to the station, we became utterly confused by the sheer chaos of the rail network in Bari. Within the one station of Bari Centrale there are separate entrances and ticket offices for trains run by Trenitalia, Ferrovie del Sud Est, Ferrotramviaria and Ferrovie Appulo Lucane. All of these are separate companies with their own ticket machines, timetables and departure boards. So if you go through the Trenitalia door of the station, which we initially did by mistake, you can only see the departures and buy tickets for the Trenitalia trains. We were trying to find the ticket office for the Ferrovie del Sud Est, which turned out to be located on its own special platform somewhere in the middle of the station. We found it in the end and managed to buy tickets, but it was touch and go for a while Alberobello is located a mere 55km to the south of Bari, but the train journey took the best part of two hours. It was a very slow train in the first place, so the journey was timetabled to be about 90 minutes anyway, but sometimes it just seemed to arrive at stations and sit there for no clear reason for a very long time. After an hour or so had gone by I began to get a bit nervous about finding the right stop to get off at, because there were no audio announcements, the electronic display board was broken and the railway stations in this part of Italy often seem to only have one sign announcing their name, and not necessarily in a place where you're going to see it before it's too late. It turned out I needn't have worried though, because when we did eventually arrive a train conductor walked down the train shouting "Alberobello" for the benefit of the tourists And I can't complain too much because the journey was very cheap; €4.80 each per direction. Once in Alberobello we followed signs for the historical centre, realising too late that these were actually traffic signs intended for cars and therefore that we were taking an unnecessarily roundabout route to where we wanted to go. Never mind! On the horizon we soon got a glimpse of the things we had come to see. These are the famous trulli of Alberobello. Trulli are little dry stone huts with conical roofs and they are a phenomenon confined this particular bit of Italy. No one is quite sure why they were first built, but the most popular theory is that they were a way of avoiding property taxes. Because trulli were built without mortar, they could quickly be dismantled if people heard that a tax inspector was in the area. Whatever the reason, hundreds and hundreds of them were built in Alberobello. Today some of them are used as shops... ...some of them are barns... ...and some of them are restaurants. As we wandered around the streets we were amazed by just how many trulli there are. Some of them have mysterious symbols painted on the roofs. And on the edge of the town we found the most unusual building of all; a church with a trulli-shaped roof! We were hungry by this point, so we walked around the town looking for restaurants. Eventually we found a trullo that had lasagne on the menu Inside it was surprisingly spacious! After lunch, we explored some of the more modern part of Alberobello, where there aren't so many trulli. The modern town is quite interesting too, and has a very pretty church. Behind the church there were more streets of trulli. These roads were less touristy and it seemed like people were still living in the trulli. All too soon it was time for us to head back to the station to catch the very slow train back to Bari. Alberobello is definitely one of the most unusual places we've visited, but it was a lot of fun
  4. Today it was time for us to leave Naples behind and travel from one coast of Italy to the other. We had quite an early start by holiday standards, with our first train leaving Naples at 09.07. As this was quite a long journey, I had booked the tickets online in advance to make sure that we got seats on the train. That also took some of the stress out of the morning and meant that we could concentrate on just getting to Napoli Centrale on time, without having to worry about finding the ticket office. There don't seem to be any direct trains between Naples and Bari, so our first train was a regional train to a town called Caserta. We were due to arrive in Caserta at 09.55 with our connection to Bari departing at 10.11, so it theory there was more than enough time to change trains. I panicked slightly when the regional train was delayed by five minutes or so, but luckily Caserta station turned out to be pretty small and we were still able to get from one platform to the other with time to spare. The train from Caserta to Bari was an Intercity train, which meant that it was a bit more comfortable than the regional trains It didn't seem like a very popular route, so the train was also quite quiet and peaceful. Both these things were good, because we had a journey of nearly four hours before we would arrive in Bari Centrale at 14.00. It was an interesting journey, which took us first of all through some quite hilly landscapes, then became noticeably flatter as we got closer to Bari. For much of the journey the countryside looked incredibly dry and dusty, and towns of any significance seemed few and far between. We arrived in Bari pretty much on time and set off to find our apartment. I'd recently had an email from booking.com asking what time we were arriving, and had selected "14.00 - 15.00" as the relevant option in the drop-down menu. The apartment was only 1.5km from the station on the map, so I thought we would be there by around 14.30. Unfortunately, Bari station is quite confusing. We followed the only signs we could see towards an exit and came out of the station onto a main road. As so often in Italy, there were no street signs so it was difficult to verify whether this was the correct road, but we assumed it was the main road marked on our map as the one we needed to walk down. We followed it for a while, then turned right after approximately the amount of time the map suggested, but when we were able to find roads with street signs on, none of them tallied up to the road names which were on the map. It was complicated a bit by the fact that Google maps seem to be so difficult to print these days, and so not all the roads which were on the map had names. But in the end we had to admit that it seemed quite strange not to have found a single marked street. Perhaps we had come out the wrong side of the station. We retraced our steps and it turned out that we had done just that! There was another exit from the station - which didn't appear to be signposted at all - and this took us out onto another main road. This time, some of the street signs did match up with the names on our map. Phew! We finally arrived outside the apartment just before 3. Or, to be more precise, we arrived at the correct building number on the correct street, but there was no indication as to whether there was a holiday apartment inside. I hadn't been given any instructions about checking in when I had booked, so in the end Tim had to try calling the phone number on the reservation. He got through to a lady who seemed to be surprised that we had arrived, which I found surprising given that I'd been asked to submit our arrival time. We assumed that now she knew that we were standing outside the building, she was going to come and let us in, so we stood and waited. We waited and waited and waited and waited but no one came. After half an hour had elapsed, Tim called the number again and got through to the same lady, who seemed surprised that we were still standing outside the apartment. A few minutes later, the door we were standing next to buzzed and clicked open; no one spoke over the intercom, but we assumed it had been opened for us and went inside. We found ourselves in a large hallway, but we still had no way of knowing which floor we needed to go to or which room number we were looking for. Tim therefore had to call the lady for a third time and this time she gave him directions. It turned out we needed to go to the third floor. We started climbing the stairs and were met by a little old lady who motioned us into an apartment. She didn't speak English but it hardly seemed to matter, because she didn't have much to say at all. There was certainly no apology or explanation for the amount of time we'd had to wait. Instead she pushed a piece of paper at us for us to tick which items we wanted for breakfast (it was news to me that we were getting breakfast!) and carried on with whatever she'd been doing before we arrived as if we weren't there. Periodically she disappeared, returning with random items. At one point she went to get flannels. Another time she returned with a couple of pairs of slippers for us to wear in the house. Tim found that his were a little small! Eventually she left, but not before impressing on us the importance of not moving our suitcases from the suitcase stands she'd told us to put them on. Under no circumstances were we to move them to the other side of the room. It seemed an odd rule! The apartment itself is very nice though, with a spacious bedroom and living area... ...as well as a modern kitchen and a nice table to eat at. You can just about see in the picture below that the dining table is covered in some sort of plastic sheeting so that we don't get it dirty We felt like we'd wasted quite a lot of time checking in by this point, so we were keen to get out and explore Bari. I was particularly keen to see what it was like because it has quite a negative reputation for being dangerous and crime-ridden. Our Italy guidebook, for example, describes the old town as being a den of thieves, populated by gangs of youngsters stealing handbags on mopeds. However, our Italy guidebook is over 10 years out of date, and we had just spent five nights in Naples, which the guidebook describes as being the most dangerous and crime-ridden city of all. The biggest hazards we personally experienced in Naples were crossing the road and attempting not to tread in dog mess. Our first impressions of Bari were that it seemed like a very calm, quiet and clean town in comparison We walked through some of the newer parts of town first of all until we got down to the sea. It was nice to see the Adriatic again, although this part of it seems to smell a bit of seaweed! Once we'd admired the sea for a while, we turned around and walked into the old town. In the first square we entered there were ruins of something, but after Pompeii they didn't seem terribly impressive. The old town looked pretty, though the buildings admittedly weren't quite as colourful as on Procida yesterday. The old town was apparently built in such a way as to deliberately be like a confusing maze, to hinder any potential invaders. As we walked deeper into it, it definitely did feel like it would be a place where it would be easy to get lost. And that some of these narrow streets might be quite threatening in the dark. During the daylight it felt completely safe though, and there were certainly no gangs of thieves on mopeds. Instead, there were lots of impressive churches... ...and some beautiful paintings on walls too. After wandering around for a while, we found the cathedral. There has been a bishop in Bari since the fourth century, though the current cathedral is more modern than that; first built in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and significantly refurbished in the eighteenth century. From the cathedral we walked slightly outside the old town and found the Castello Svevo. This castle was first built by a Norman king in 1132 which is rather surprising. From outside the castle we could see back towards the old town and the cathedral. Rather than going back inside the old town, we decide to stroll around the edge of it on the city walls. The city walls are a really pleasant walkway. From here you can see out to sea... ...and down into the old town as well. We came down from the walls by the Basilica di San Nicola. This is the most famous church in Bari, being home to the relics of St Nicholas. By this point it was around 5pm and, while we'd enjoyed exploring Bari, we were now seriously hungry. We hadn't had any lunch due to being on the train, and by the time we'd finally succeeded in checking into the apartment we had well and truly missed the Italian lunchtime. The problem was that we were also far too early for the Italian dinnertime! We did another lap of the town but the only places that were open were of the cafe or kebab shop variety; all the restaurants were well and truly closed. This didn't seem to be an insurmountable problem, however, because this was precisely the sort of reason why we had rented an apartment rather than a hotel room. We'd already located the nearest supermarket to where we were staying, so we decided to head there and stock up on some pasta for our evening meal. We bought some pasta and mince for a bolognese and in no time at all were back at our apartment.... whereupon we realised that there were no pots and pans in the kitchen! This is really, really weird, because it's quite a big kitchen. It even has a dishwasher, although what they are expecting us to wash in it I'm not sure. There are rows of cupboards but, when we opened them, the majority of them were empty. All we could find were a couple of plates, mugs, glasses and cutlery. There was a hob and even an oven, but no implements for cooking whatsoever. Tim wasn't terribly impressed by this state of affairs and decided to call the owner again A few minutes later, the old lady appeared at our door to lend us a pot and give Tim some advice on keeping the kitchen clean. She then reappeared a few minutes later to lend us a tea towel as well. Problem solved for now, but I think we'll be eating out for the remaining nights we're staying here
  5. Day 5: Procida

    Our plan for today was to visit the island of Procida. When I was originally planning the holiday a few months ago, my initial intention had been to visit the bigger and more famous island of Capri. There are plenty of ferries between Naples and Capri every day, but the prices seemed prohibitively expensive for a day trip. I then looked at the island of Ischia, which looks quite spectacular and is slightly cheaper to get to. While googling things to do on Ischia, however, I realised that the island had suffered an earthquake in August 2017, and there didn't seem to be much information online about how much damage had been done. We've already had some experience of how long it can take to repair earthquake damage in Italy when we visited L'Aquila in 2013, so I thought it might be prudent to give Ischia a miss. While I was reading up on it though I realised that there was a third island I'd never heard of - Procida - which was located off the coast of Ischia. The guidebook said that Procida was less touristy than the other islands, which sounded good. We decided to give it a go Boats to Procida can be expensive if you travel on one of the fast hydrofoils, but by searching online I managed to find cheaper tickets for a slower ferry run by the regional state ferry company Caremar. I thought I'd been clever by booking the tickets online in advance, but actually it turned out that when you buy a ticket online, what you get sent is a document with a bar code that you need to exchange for an actual ticket at a ticket office in the port. Our first challenge this morning was to locate the relevant ticket office in the correct bit of the port. We left the apartment with plenty of time to spare and began to make our way through the streets of Naples in the direction of the sea. Once we got to the Castel Nuovo, we knew that we were in the right bit of town. The situation with ports in Naples is a bit confusing. There is a main port called Molo Beverello and this is where the fast, passenger-only boats depart from. It's large, well-signposted and easy to find. Unfortunately, that wasn't where our ferry was departing from. We were due to leave from Porto di Massa, which I'd seen described online as being a few hundred metres from Beverello. Bizarrely, there are absolutely no signs or directions of any sort to this port. We walked around the general port area in complete confusion for a while, trying to avoid being run over or captured by Italian taxi drivers who wanted to drive everyone to Pompeii. I was hoping we might see some sort of sign for the Caremar ferry company and least, but we didn't. In the end we had to admit defeat, and Tim went to ask a policeman for directions. Luckily the policeman was very friendly and indicated that we should walk a few hundred metres to the right. We negotiated a path through a car park and found ourselves in something resembling a small industrial estate. This was possibly Porto di Massa, but we still couldn't see any signs for Caremar. There were ticket offices for other ferry companies though, so Tim went into one of these to ask for further directions, which seemed to imply that we just needed to keep walking to the right. We continued walking, but five minutes later, there was still no sign of the place we were looking for. Tim had to approach a second policeman (luckily Naples is full of police!) and eventually his directions led us to the furthest corner of the port, where we located the ticket office for Caremar. Phew! We exchanged our online booking coupon for a proper ticket and then we were able to walk straight onto the ferry. The ferry felt like it had seem slightly better days, with rather dirty windows that it wasn't possible to take photos out of. The journey from Naples to Procida is only an hour though, so it wasn't long before we were stepping out onto the island. One of the things I had read about Procida is that it's an incredibly colourful island, and on first impressions that definitely seemed to be true. We walked along the seafront for a while... ...towards the first of many beautiful bright yellow churches which we were going to see during the course of the day. Then we turned up one of the little side streets into the centre of the town. Some of the streets on Procida are very narrow. They aren't pedestrianised either, so cars and mopeds come whizzing past you at speed. We walked uphill for a while and caught sight of our second yellow church at the end of this road. This one was really lovely. At the side of the church was a viewpoint from where we could see out across some of the rest of the island. Looking in the other direction, we could see up the hill of Terra Murata. The fortified building on the hill used to be a prison. As we climbed higher up the hill, the views got even better. Soon we could see the whole of the island's main town, with all its brightly coloured buildings. These are what the photos of Procida had looked like when I'd googled it, so I wasn't disappointed The guidebook said that the island was only four square kilometres. Now that we were standing here we could see that we had already accidentally walked across from one side of it to another; our ferry had arrived in the bit of sea on the far side of this photo. The island is longer than it is wide though, so we could see that there was still quite a bit of it left to explore. We continued up the hill until we reached the highest point on the island. There was a yellow church here too, although this one could have done with a lick of paint. Then we set off back down the hill to find somewhere to have lunch. Our route led past some more multicoloured buildings... ...through narrow streets... ...and eventually down to the harbour that we'd seen when up on the hill. From down here it looked even more amazing than from above. There were plenty of restaurants down by the harbour but the problem was that - being on an island - most of them were specialising in fish Luckily we did succeed in finding a place that served pizza as well... ...and when the pizzas came they were enormous! After lunch we decided to walk to the other side of the island. There were yellow churches here too! The streets were still very narrow and the locals had narrow cars and vans to navigate them After 45 minutes or so we reached the sea again. There was another small village on this side of the island... ...complete with yellow church! There was also another small harbour... ...which we strolled around for a while... ...before heading back to the main part of the island. We had enough time left for a final drink at the beautiful harbour... ...before it was time to catch the ferry back to Naples once more. Tomorrow we will be leaving the western coast of Italy behind and travelling east, to Bari. It's going to have to be pretty spectacular there to beat the past couple of days at Pompeii and Procida
  6. Day 4: Pompeii

    Our destination for today was the famous ruined city of Pompeii. Pompeii, which is situated about 30km south of Naples, is easy to visit for a day trip as one of the main entrances to the site is located next to the station of Pompei Scavi on the Circumvesuviana train line. When we got to the station in Naples this morning, we therefore caught one of the same trains as yesterday in the direction of Sorrento, with the tickets being even cheaper this time (a mere €2.80!) because we weren't going quite as far. The train journey to Pompei Scavi is supposed to take around 35 minutes, though our train took slightly longer because it was temporarily delayed by a passenger being taken ill. As soon as you step off the train at Pompei Scavi you are confronted by a bunch of stalls with people trying to sell tours and tickets. From reading the guidebook in advance, I knew that these were all 'unofficial' and that the actual entrance tickets are only on sale at the ticket office inside the main gate. It costs €13 for a normal entrance ticket; the touts outside seemed to be charging €15 for whatever they were selling. Having successfully avoided being ripped off, we walked through the gate and joined the ticket queue. I'd read that queues at Pompeii could be quite long, but actually we only had to wait for five minutes or so before we got to a ticket counter. We had no problem purchasing tickets but we obviously failed somewhere because we realised somewhat belatedly that every other tourist in Pompeii except from us had also acquired a helpful free map! Initially I didn't think not having a map would be too much of a problem, but it turned out I had no concept of quite how enormous Pompeii is. As soon as we'd finished buying the tickets, we turned around and got our first view of the ruins. After passing through the ticket control, the route into the site leads up this rather steep path. Soon we were inside and exploring the first of many ruined houses.... ...and admiring our first mosaics. Pompeii is in a really beautiful location. Our attention was soon caught by this striking statue, which is situated in what was the Temple of Venus, built on a panoramic viewpoint at the edge of the town. Around the corner from here is Pompeii's visitor centre, which featured a bookshop, some pottery exhibits and an audiovisual display.... but no leaflets or maps! We watched the audiovisual display though and it was full of informative details about life in Pompeii, which was originally founded in the sixth or seventh century BC, becoming part of the Roman Empire from the fourth century BC onwards. It was in 79AD that Pompeii was destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius. The volcano constantly appears on the horizon as you walk around the town (and the cloudy weather today made it look quite menacing!) In the absence of a map, we decided to try and follow the (rather sparse!) signposts towards the main sites which had been mentioned in the audiovisual display. Our first stop was the basilica. This was one of the most important public buildings in Pompeii, because it was home to the courthouse. At the far end of the basilica you can walk down into another of the most important areas; the forum. The forum was huge.... ...and parts of it are still amazingly well-preserved. At the far end are the remains of the Temple of Jupiter. The forum seemed to be the prime location for tour groups to congregate, so after a while we decided to strike out onto a quieter side street on our own. We had no idea where we were going, but with views like this it didn't really seem to matter It didn't take long until we had lost most of the other tourists, and as we walked along we were able to get fascinating glimpses inside the ruined houses. What we would perhaps have realised more quickly if we'd had a map was that some of the small side streets are dead ends; either because the town comes to an end or because certain sites are closed of for restoration or further excavation. So after a while we had to turn around and retrace our steps. Next time we chose a slightly wider street. Some of the grander houses were located on this street. We explored the garden of this one, which is known as the House of the Faun. It got its name from this statue of a dancing faun, which is in its grounds. More impressive than the faun though are the mosaics. Especially this one, which depicts Alexander the Great in battle. Once we'd finished exploring the House of the Faun, we set off down another side road. We were trying to find Pompeii's amphitheatre, which we knew was somewhere on the far side of the town. We passed lots of interesting buildings on the way... ...and concluded that Romans must all have been quite narrow if they were able to fit through archways like this. In places we could see the remnants of some sort of signs or graffiti on the walls, which was quite exciting. We walked for what felt like miles and found no trace of the amphitheatre, but we did find the house of Octavius Quartio. This house was really fascinating because you could see the remains of the painted walls. Some of them were really bright and colourful... ...while others seemed to depict elaborate battle scenes. The house had an impressive garden too. We emerged back onto one of the main streets and continued walking. Eventually we caught sight of the amphitheatre on the horizon It was made of a very dark sort of stone, but it was impressively big... ...especially once you were inside. We walked around the edge of the amphitheatre... ...and found the Palestra. This is the athletics field where the men of Pompeii would have come to keep fit. It is surrounded by some impressive porticoes. We were near the edge of the town now and we could see the more modern town of Pompei in the distance. We'd been walking around Pompeii for around four hours now (it really is enormous!) and so we were pretty tired and hungry. But before we left there was one more must-see sight that I wanted to try and find, so we set off through the streets once again. I was looking for a building known as the House of the Tragic Poet. Who he was and why he was tragic I'm not sure, but the house is home to one of the most famous mosaics in Pompeii. We knew it was somewhere to the north of the forum, so we retraced our steps to there. Eventually we found the right house, and this is the mosaic. The text says "Cave canem" which is Latin for "Beware of the dog" I would certainly want to beware of a dog that looks as scary as this one! By this point we had seen all the things I definitely wanted to see, though probably still only a fraction of everything there is to see at Pompeii. I would definitely come back (although next time with a picnic and a map!) to explore more
  7. Day 3: Sorrento

    We had quite a late night yesterday by the time we'd been driven around Naples, eaten one of the biggest ice-creams I've ever had in my life, and spent time admiring the view of the city at night. It was a fascinating experience to see Naples like a local; the ice-cream parlour at 9pm on a Sunday night was as busy as a pub would have been in England on a Friday night, and once you'd bought an ice-cream the thing to do seemed to be to walk along the pier and browse the many stalls selling knock-off sunglasses and jewellery. Some of the driving was breathtaking though, as was the way the locals seem to have no concerns about stepping straight out into a stream of oncoming traffic whenever and wherever they feel like crossing the road, and just assuming that the vehicles will either stop or swerve to avoid them It was all quite tiring though so we had another slow start to the morning, but it worked out quite well because our plan for today was to visit Sorrento, and as the trains between Naples and Sorrento are pretty frequent, it didn't really matter what time we got to the station. Sorrento is situated about 50km south of Naples and is the final stop on the Circumvesuviana railway, a local train line which runs along the coast. The tickets were amazingly cheap (€3.90 each), though the trains themselves seem like they have seen better days. The journey from Naples to Sorrento took us about an hour and ten minutes, mainly because it stopped at a small local station every other minute. There are occasionally faster trains, which stop at fewer places and make the journey in around 40 minutes. It looked like it had been raining overnight in Naples, but when we stepped off the train in Sorrento there was a beautiful blue sky. I knew Sorrento was supposed to be beautiful but what I didn't know until today was that it is built above a huge gorge. Apparently it was formed during a huge volcanic eruption thousands of years ago, which created deep crevices in the rock. It looked like there was a beautiful view of the sea at the end of it anyway, so we followed a series of staircases down the side of the rock to the road below and began to walk towards the sea. When we got to the end of the road we found the first of several statues of the town's patron saint, Sant' Antonino Abbate. We'd climbed quite a long way down from the main town! We were right by the sea now, though we soon realised that it wouldn't be possible to walk along the coast because it's so incredibly rocky! There was a pier stretching out into the sea though, so we decided to walk along that to enjoy the views. We could see along the coast... ...out to sea... ...and back towards Sorrento. And yes, the view out to sea was marred by yet another cruise ship! Although this one didn't seem quite as large as the one that was in Naples yesterday. The logo on the side said it was a 'Regent' ship, which isn't a brand we've come across on our travels before. Cruise ship aside, the views of the coast were spectacular.... ..and Sorrento itself looked amazing, perched on the top of the cliffs. Sorrento also looked a long way up though and we weren't sure that we fancied the climb! Luckily there is a lift, which for €1 will take you from Sorrento's makeshift beach back up to the top of the cliffs. In a matter of seconds we were up at the top and able to look down on the beach from above. Sorrento may be the only place that makes those very rocky beaches in Croatia and Montenegro look like an attractive place to sunbathe Now that we were back up high we were able to explore some more of the town. There were some pretty churches.... ...and colourful buildings... ...some of which were built right up close to the rocks. These large cliffs seemed to signal the end of the town, so we turned around and strolled back in the opposite direction. The views were great this way too. The colourful church was Chiesa dei Servi di Maria. When we turned off the main street onto the narrower streets of the old town, we realised that it had a beautiful clock on one side of its tower. We wandered around the old town for a while looking for somewhere to eat. Sorrento is definitely a touristy place and there seemed to be more souvenir shops than restaurants. Every other shop seemed to be selling limoncello, a lemon liqueur which is made around here. Eventually we found a place which wasn't too expensive and had a promising pasta menu We both opted for bolognese, but rather than spaghetti bolognese we chose something called scialatelli bolognese. I'd never heard of scialatelli before, but the menu said that it was fresh, homemade pasta, which sounded good. When it came it turned out to be thicker and flatter than spaghetti; a bit like tagliatelle would be if it was chopped up into small pieces. It was delicious, and actually loads easier to eat than spaghetti The food was so good that we decided to have a pudding as well. I had a tiramisu and Tim had the desert of the day, which seemed to be like a lemon-flavoured trifle. The sky had become a bit darker while we were eating and for a few minutes we thought it was going to rain, but fortunately it stayed dry and was just a bit cloudy as we explored the rest of the town. This was the Piazza Tasso, the main square in the centre of the town which is named after the Italian poet Torquato Tasso, who was born here. As we walked through the square, my attention was caught by some greenery to our right. This turned out to be the other side of the gorge that we'd climbed down into earlier in the day. There was an incredibly steep drop down. I definitely had vertigo when peering over the railings! The abandoned building at the bottom of the gorge used to be a mill. Apparently the creation of Piazza Tasso in the nineteenth century caused the mill's water supply to dry up and so it fell into a state of disrepair. Soon it time to walk back towards the station for our train to Naples. The journey back was uneventful and we were just relaxing in our apartment when we heard a tremendous commotion of horns and sirens outside the window. We went out onto the balcony and were greeted by a scene of complete travel chaos! The white van with the red stripe was an ambulance, which was trying and failing to make any progress down the busy street. Rush hour in Naples would not be a good time to get taken ill!
  8. Day 2: Naples

    I didn't wake up very early this morning, still pretty tired after the early start yesterday, so it was around 10am before we set out to explore Naples. Because our apartment is in such a good location, we weren't too far away from the centro storico (old town). In fact we didn't have to go far at all to get our first glimpses of some of the many churches which line the streets of Naples. The biggest landmark in the old town is the Duomo, so we headed there first. The cathedral is known as the Cattedrale di San Gennaro after the city's patron saint. It's a really beautiful building Once we had passed the cathedral, we went deeper into the old town, on increasingly narrow streets. If you thought these streets were so small they must be pedestrianised, you'd be wrong! Everywhere we went we kept having to dodge out of the way as mopeds and little Smart cars whizzed past us. After a while we emerged into a square, which was home to the church of San Lorenzo Maggiore. It was a really pretty location, but I was surprised at how busy it was. It was difficult to take photos because the main street running past the church was overrun with large groups of tourists on walking tours. The side streets were quieter - if you could avoid the mopeds! It felt like you could wander around the old town for hours and never find your way out. It also felt like it wouldn't necessarily be a good place to get lost at night! There were some beautiful old buildings though. And so many churches! Eventually we emerged into a wider, leafy square. We were now in the more modern part of town. We passed through the Port'Alba, one of the old city gates into Naples. We were then in Piazza Dante. The square is dominated by a large statue of Dante. From here we walked onto Via Toledo, a long shopping street which leads down towards the sea. There were lots of beautiful churches here too... I have no idea what this building was, but we loved the view through the archway. Once we'd been walking for a while, we caught sight of a castle on the horizon. This is Castel Nuovo... and this isn't a great photo of it because of the enormous crane... but if you look to the left you'll see the reason why the centre of Naples felt so busy this morning; an enormous cruise ship sitting in the port! As we walked towards the castle, our attention was caught by this very striking yellow building. Believe it or not, this is actually a shopping mall! A little bit more scenic than the Bullring in Birmingham We had to cross a very busy road, but eventually we managed to get a photo of the castle which wasn't obscured by a building site. Although this is called Castel Nuovo, it was actually first built in 1266! A few minutes after passing the castle, we reached the sea From here we went through a park... ...and then climbed up a bit of a hill along a road which gave us some amazing views out to sea. I was particularly excited when I got my first proper view of Vesuvius It's really huge! We also had a view out to sea, towards some of the islands in the bay. My geography of the area isn't good enough yet though to know which island we were looking at. We continued to follow the road around the coast. We were walking towards another castle- Castel dell'Ovo - which is situated on a little peninsula. This castle, which is the oldest fortification in Naples, is free to walk around and explore As we made our way across the walkway to the castle there were some more wonderful views of the bay. Then we began climbing up inside the castle. Soon the views were even better And when we got up to the highest viewing platform, the views were really superb. It looked like we could see for miles around the coast... ...and also back towards the centre of Naples, with yet another castle perched on the top of the hill. It was after midday by this point so we decided to try one of the restaurants near the bottom of the castle for lunch. We were in a touristy area this time so the prices were more expensive than yesterday, but I had another amazing pizza so it seemed worth it After lunch we walked back inland and ended up in Piazza del Plebiscito, which is one of the biggest squares in Naples. The square is home to the church of San Francesco di Paola, which is quite an unusual shape. From here we also had a good view of the Castel Sant'Elmo on the top of the hill. That was where we were heading next. There are several funiculars which run from the centre of Naples up the hill towards the castle and they're part of the normal public transport network. We found the nearest station not far from the square and were lucky enough to arrive a few minutes before the next funicular was due to depart. We were soon at the top of the hill, walking through what felt like a slightly quieter and calmer bit of Naples, in search of the castle. Up close, it turned out not to be a very exciting castle. It was worth coming up the hill for the views of Naples, though. From up here it was obvious quite how big the city is. We decided to walk down the hill, following a series of staircases and steep little streets. Before too long we were back at ground level... ...and walking back towards our apartment, via a route which enabled us to admire some more of Naples' churches. We wanted to go back to the apartment for a bit of a rest before another excursion this evening; the owner of the apartment had promised to come and pick us up at 20.30 to show us some of the city at night...
  9. When I was booking off my holidays from work this year, it turned out that it was going to be quite convenient to take a week off in October. We don't often go on holiday in October though, so we spent some time deliberating what would be a good destination. The one time we have been away this late in the autumn before was in 2014 when we went to Sardinia; the weather there was still beautiful in early October, so that got us thinking about southern Italy. Although we've had quite a few holidays to Italy in the past, the furthest south we've been was a slightly unsuccessful trip to Campobasso in 2013. That still left us quite a lot of Italy to explore and so when Tim found some reasonably priced flights to Naples it seemed like a perfect solution for an October break The reason that the flight out was so reasonably priced may have been related to the fact that it was departing Stansted at the rather early hour of 7am. At some point after booking, I then received one of those rather scary emails from Ryanair telling me that the flight times had changed and I either had the option to accept the revised time or kiss goodbye to my money and my holiday. The change turned out to be making an early flight even earlier, bringing the departure time forward to 06.35. I wasn't exactly thrilled about that at the time, but given the way Ryanair has been cancelling flights left right and centre over the past few weeks, when it got to this morning I was just glad to be flying at all! A 06.35 flight meant we needed to be at the airport parking for 4am... which meant leaving home at 2am.... which meant getting up at 01.30. By the time Tim had finished everything he needed to do last night and was ready to go to bed, it was hardly worth bothering! Somehow we managed to drag ourselves out of bed when the alarm went off and made it to Stansted on plenty of time. The flight was delayed by half an hour or so but I have absolutely no idea why because I fell asleep while we were waiting to take off and only woke up as we were flying over the (very snowy) Alps We touched down in a bright and sunny Naples around 10.15 and got our first taste of southern Italian chaos. Passport control was a bit of a rabble; essentially a large room full of people edging forward towards the passport gates without anything that could have been identified as a queue. When we emerged into the baggage reclaim area, I was a bit stressed to see that our flight was not one of the five or six listed on the information screen showing baggage carousel numbers. We stood around in confusion for a while, until I suddenly caught sight of my (fortunately quite distinctive!) blue suitcase travelling around a belt a few metres away. According to the information board, this was the carousel for an Iberia flight from Madrid The airport is situated around 7km outside the main centre of Naples and there's a regular bus service which runs every 15 minutes or so. It took us a while to track down the bus stop; when we did we found there was a bus there waiting, but it seemed incredibly full so we decided to hang back and wait for the next one. There was actually a proper queue at the bus stop and a man whose job it seemed to be to police it. It wasn't long before a second bus arrived, which was good, but once we got on it we realised that - quite unusually for an airport bus - it didn't have anywhere to store luggage. That was a bit of a problem, as our suitcases are quite large! We found a seat towards the back of the bus but proceeded to have a very uncomfortable journey. I was trying to balance my suitcase on a step, hanging onto it for dear life to try and stop it falling on top of anybody else as we swung round corners. Tim was in an even worse position, sitting in a very contorted position while his suitcase occupied the space where his legs should have been. The only saving grace was that it was a short journey and we were soon deposited outside Napoli Centrale. I had read in the guidebook that this was not the best area of Naples, and it definitely didn't give a very good first impression. In the first instance there didn't seem to be a proper pavement where the bus dropped us off, so we had to try and avoid getting run over by other buses and negotiate a busy road to get across to the station itself. We decided to try and walk in the vague direction of our apartment and - as it was nearly midday at this point - hopefully find somewhere to eat along the way. Unusually for Italy though, eating establishments seemed to be few and far between, with nothing more enticing than an occasional kebab shop. Pulling suitcases along the streets was a bit of a challenge, as the pavements were in a state of repair which wouldn't have looked out of place in Bratislava and we occasionally had to lift our suitcases across random piles of rubbish in the middle of the street. I booked the accommodation in Naples a long time ago but I distinctly remember that I spent a lot of time researching the different neighbourhoods and booked an apartment in a part of town that was recommended in the guidebook. So although the part of the city that we were walking through didn't look particularly appealing, I was convinced that things would start looking up when we got closer to the apartment. After about half an hour we found the correct street and first impressions were that it looked rather run-down! It took a while to figure out which building we were looking for, as the houses seemed to be numbered in some original Italian kind of order that wasn't strictly numerical, but eventually we figured out that the doorway we needed was the open gap to the left of the graffitied shutter. Hmm. I logged into my booking.com app to check that I had definitely booked a 9.5! We were a bit too early to check in so we needed somewhere we could sit down and have a drink. Tim tried wandering up the road to see if there were any cafes (not really!) before realising that the building next door to the apartment building was a sort of wine bar. We went inside and found a friendly lady who was selling glasses of different wines on tap for €1.50. Tim asked whether we could get anything to eat and she mysteriously disappeared outside for a few minutes, before reappearing with a bag of crisps for us. When Tim tried to pay for the crisps at the end, she insisted that they were free That was a quite a surprise, as was the fact that the wine was so cheap. We started to feel a bit more positive about the neighbourhood! We'd arranged to check into the apartment 1pm and sure enough, at 1 on the dot I got a missed call on my mobile from the owner. My phone seems to be struggling a bit to get a proper signal in Naples, so Tim called him back and it transpired he was on one of the balconies above and could see us. He showed us into the apartment, which I was relieved to see looked really nice once we were inside. It's slightly unusual in that the bedroom is on a little mezzanine level above the living room, but it's actually quite spacious once you're up there. The owner was a really lovely man who must have had some bad experiences which renting out the apartment in the past, because first of all he showed us around the room and then asked us whether or not we liked it. If we didn't, he said he could refund us our deposit and help us find somewhere else to stay! We were perfectly happy though, especially when he showed us that there were some free breakfast supplies, a bottle of wine in the fridge for us and some coffee (somewhat surprisingly, also kept in the fridge!). If we didn't like the breakfast, he said he could go and buy us something else(!) and he also offered to bring more wine tomorrow and take us on a guided drive around Naples. It began to make more sense why this was a 9.5/10 He also provided us with a map of Naples and gave us some restaurant recommendations. We were starving by this point so when we'd finished checking in, we followed his advice and walked a few minutes up the road to one of the places he'd mentioned. We arrived and found there was a slight queue outside, so it seemed to be popular! We got a table quite quickly though and the food turned up with astonishing speed once we had ordered. I had an enormous pizza (probably the nicest diavola pizza I've ever had!) and Tim had a steak. We also had some wine, a large bottle of water and two coffees. When the bill came, the prices seemed too good to be true. I think the same meal could easily have cost twice as much further north in Italy! By the time we'd finished the meal and got back to the apartment it was nearly 4pm. We were both feeling pretty tired, so decided to have a nap for an hour and then get up at 5 to go out and explore a bit of Naples before it got dark. This was an excellent plan... but when my alarm went off at 5, I managed to snooze it a few times, then turn it off altogether and fall back to sleep! By the time I woke up it was nearly 7 and already totally dark outside. So there will be no scenic pictures of Naples on the blog until tomorrow
  10. Day 11: Toledo

    Our plan for today had always been to visit Toledo, but perhaps because it was at the end of the holiday, I hadn't put quite as much time into planning the logistics of it as I had some of our earlier days. This manifested itself first of all this morning over breakfast, when we realised that we didn't actually know which of the Madrid stations the trains to Toledo leave from. Oops! Tim consulted the Renfe website and eventually we established that they leave from the station Puerta de Atocha, not to be confused with the nearby metro station of Atocha. It was eight stops to get to Puerta de Atocha on the metro, which didn't sound too bad, but we keep underestimating the sheer size of Madrid. It turned out that, including the walk from our apartment to the relevant metro station, it would take the best part of an hour to get there. The first train to Toledo we were therefore going to be on time to get was the 11.20. We figured that would be okay and set off. There was another slight blip in our plans when, having bought the metro tickets, I accidentally inserted mine in a turnstile machine which was out of order. The turnstile gave me the ticket back, but when I tried to put it through a properly functional turnstile, the machine beeped and wouldn't let me through because it thought the ticket had already been used once. I was temporarily stranded! Tim suggested that, seeing as I did technically have a valid ticket, I should climb over the turnstile barrier. There was no way I was going to be able to do that. In the end I managed to crawl under it The metro journey was long and we arrived at Puerta de Atocha with about 10 minutes to spare to buy a ticket. We thought this ought to be fine, but we were wrong! First of all, our lack of experience with Spanish train stations meant that we initially started trying to use the wrong sort of ticket machines. It turns out that there are two types of Renfe ticket machines; one for local trains and one for long distance trains. When we eventually found the correct machine to buy tickets for long distance trains, there was still technically enough time to buy a ticket and get to the train... but the ticket machine told us that the 11.20 train was full A train being full is not a concept we have in England, where there is no relationship between the number of tickets they sell and the number of seats on the train. But the Spanish trains seem to operate like the fast trains in Italy, where you can only board the train if you have a ticket with an allocated seat, and so trains really can become "full". We were rather disappointed, but we really did want to go to Toledo, so we decided to buy tickets for the 12.20 train instead. Luckily that still had some spaces left! This unexpected delay meant that we had just over an hour to kill in a Madrid station. That didn't seem the most appealing prospect, although the station building itself is quite impressive. We decided to go outside for a stroll. Upon exiting the station, the first thing we saw was the incredibly grand building of the Ministry of Agriculture. Consulting the map, we realised that the station wasn't far away from one of Madrid's large parks: Buen Retiro. We remembered it from our previous visit to Madrid and so decided to go for a stroll. It's a really beautiful park. I particularly enjoyed walking around the rose garden. We also found a pleasant lake... ...with an artificial waterfall. It's a big park, so we only succeeded in seeing part of it before we realised that we needed to head back to the station if we were going to successfully catch our 12.20 train. We thought we knew which way we needed to go, but we took a wrong turned and ended up having to retrace our steps, which cost us several minutes. We arrived back at the station with 10 minutes before our train departed. That sounded like it ought to be fine... We'd reckoned without the complexity of Spanish train stations, however! We knew our train was departing from platform 14 and we saw a sign pointing to platforms 13 - 15 almost straight away. But then it turned out that there are difference entrances/exits to platforms depending on whether you are departing or arriving, and we were walking in the direction of arrivals. Then we realised that it order to get to the departure platforms, we needed to go up several flights of escalators. We managed that and got to the entrance of the platforms with a few minutes to spare... only to belatedly remember that to get on a train, you have to pass through security! Luckily there wasn't too much of a queue and it was just a case of showing our tickets to a ticket inspector and then passing Tim's bag through a scanner. With two minutes left until our train departed, we had a mad dash along the concourse towards platform 14. I didn't think we were going to make it but thankfully we did, managing to jump onto the train about 30 seconds before the doors closed and continue walking down the carriages as the train pulled off until we found the one we were supposed to be sitting in. Phew! The journey from Madrid to Toledo is pretty short, taking around 35 minutes, so we arrived just before 1pm. When we stepped off the train in Toledo, the first thing we wanted to take photos of was the train station itself! It's a really amazing building, with stained glass windows that wouldn't look out of place in a church. It also has a really ornate roof. There were various tour guides standing outside the station, trying to sell tickets for various tourist buses around the town. One of them threatened that it would take 35 minutes to walk from the station to the old town. We decided to risk it, confident that after the steep streets in Portugal, we ought to be able to handle any hills Toledo had to throw at us As we walked along the road away from the station we got our first glimpse of the town. Wow. Toledo is situated on the Tagus river, which is the one that we'd seen entering the sea at Lisbon earlier in the week. The train station is on the opposite side of the river to the main town, so first of all we needed to cross the river via the Puente de Alcántara. This beautiful bridge was originally built by the Romans and now has two fortified gates, one at each end. As we crossed the bridge we had a wonderful view up towards the town and the Alcázar. Once we were on the far side of the river, we began our ascent up to the town. There was a staircase we could have taken but it looked really steep, so took a gentler route following the curve of a road. There were some great views as we climbed. In particular, I loved this church with the patterned roof tiles. Eventually we made it up to the town centre. We calculated it took as about 20 minutes, so not as long as the tour guides had been telling people down at the station. As it had taken us so long to get to Toledo it was pretty much lunch time, so our first priority was to find somewhere to eat. As we walked through the narrow little streets of the old town looking for restaurants, we got a tantalising glimpse of the cathedral. Some of the restaurants in Toledo looked quite expensive, but we found a cheap little pizzeria that was completely empty when we arrived at 13.30. In England that might mean that there was something wrong with the food there, but in Spain it just meant that we were too early for the lunchtime rush; it was full by the time we left an hour later! The pizza was delicious but Tim wasn't very happy when the one he ordered unexpectedly came covered in some sort tomato and gherkins salsa. After lunch we set out to explore more of Toledo and soon tracked down the cathedral. The cathedral is absolutely enormous, and very beautiful. Because of our late arrival, we didn't have as long as we'd hoped to spend in Toledo, so we didn't sight-see in a very structured manner, instead just wandering through the streets and admiring the different buildings. There was a lot of very interesting architecture. The most striking building in Toledo is the Alcázar, a large fortification which was originally a Roman palace and then restored by the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V in the sixteenth century. It was also the site of a famous siege during the Spanish Civil War, during which the building was badly damaged. Today it has been restored and houses a military museum. From a viewpoint on the edge of the town, we could see across the river towards the castle of San Servando. This was initially a monastery, which was converted into a fortress by the Knights Templar to protect the bridge into Toledo against a potential Muslim attack. Near to the castle, on the same side of the river, is the Toledo Infantry Academy, a centre where officers in the present day Spanish army receive training. Too soon it was time for us to climb back down towards the bridge. We went out through the Alcantara gate... ...and across the bridge once again. Luckily our journey back to Madrid all worked smoothly and we were ready on time to meet up with our friends in a suburb of Madrid at 19.30. We visited their home first of all and then went out for dinner at a local restaurant. We had some beautiful chorizo to start with, followed by steak and some amazing lemon pancakes. It was a lovely evening and a lovely end to our stay in Madrid. Tomorrow afternoon we will be flying back to Birmingham, with the Spanish airline Iberia. We've had a great holiday, discovering Portugal for the first time and revisiting Spain. I've loved everywhere we've been, but I think the absolute highlights were exploring the Buçaco forest and seeing the wonderful palace at Sintra. I think we will definitely be back to this part of the world one day (and hopefully next time plan our visit to Toledo a bit better!)
  11. Day 10: Madrid

    As we arrived in Madrid pretty late last night, we didn't have any time to see anything. Once we'd had breakfast this morning, we therefore wanted to head into the centre of town and see some of the parts of the city which we remembered particularly enjoying when we first came to Madrid in 2014. The apartment we're staying in is quite close to several metro stations, so we were able to jump on a metro to the central station of Puerta del Sol fairly quickly. It seems like a ride on the metro to anywhere except the airport is €1.50 which is extremely good value. There's a large square at Puerta del Sol, with various roads leading off from it like spokes. We decided to follow one of the main roads which would take us in the direction of the royal palace. As we walked along that road, the first impressive building that we came to was the Casa de la Villa, which used to be Madrid's town hall. It's an impressive building with towers which wouldn't look out of place in a Nordic country. From there it wasn't far to walk to the Almudena Cathedral, which is located next to the royal palace. It's an absolutely enormous cathedral. On one side there's a statue of Pope John Paul II who consecrated the cathedral in 1993. Around the corner from the cathedral is the Palacio Real de Madrid, the official residence of the Spanish royal family. The palace is huge too. You can pay to go inside, but we contented ourselves with a photo through the bars of the fence Once we'd spent some time admiring the palace and the cathedral, we wanted to seek out a church which we particularly remembered from last time we were here. We caught sight of it in the distance and tried to walk in the correct general direction. Our route led us through the Sabatini gardens, which are in front of the royal palace. They're lovely peaceful gardens, with some impressive hedges... ...and some great views back towards the royal palace. We were getting closer to the colourful church now. The irony of this church is that when you're close beside it, you can't actually see the beautiful dome. So we ended up accidentally walking past it, and found ourselves in a neighbouring park, which is home to the the Temple of Debod. This is an ancient Egyptian temple, which was donated to Spain by the Egyptian government in recognition of their assistance with preserving historical monuments during the building of the Aswan Dam. When we realised our mistake, we turned around and walked towards the views of the church again. Eventually we tracked it down The church is called Santa Teresa y San José and the roof is made from coloured mosaic tiles. It's really unique. From there we walked back towards the palace, through another of the pretty parks which is situated alongside it. We needed to walk across to the opposite side of Madrid, to where the Biblioteca Nacional de España (National Library of Spain) is located. Our friend Jorge works there and had offered to give us a private guided tour, which was too good an opportunity to miss. The exterior of the library is very grand. There's very tight security and in order to be allowed in, we first of all had to pass our belongings through an airport-style scanner, and then show our passports at a security desk to be given special visitor badges, including our photos. We weren't able to take photos inside the library, but it was really fascinating. There was a really grand staircase and a beautiful reading room. We were also able to see behind the scenes, from where the books are first received into the library, to where they are processed, catalogued and finally stored. It was amazing to see the rows and rows of shelving, and in particular the rows of antique books, with shelves full of books dating back as far as the seventeenth century. After the tour we went to have lunch with Jorge at a place called Café Gijón. That was quite an exciting experience too, as it was a posher place than we might have dared go into on our own. There was a fixed price lunchtime menu for €12.50, with various options to choose from. We both had a clear soup to start, then I had a steak and Tim tried some Galician ham, which was in a sort of paprika sauce. Drinks and pudding were also included in the price. I expected to get a glass of wine, and ended up with half a litre! Overall it reminded me a bit of a coffeehouse in Vienna; both in terms of the atmosphere and the slight unfriendliness of the waiters After lunch, we walked back into the centre of town, wanting to find some bookshops where Tim could stock up on Spanish novels. We walked past the Palacio de Cibeles, an incredibly ornate building which is the home of the city council. We continued along a street called Gran Via, where there were some really beautiful buildings. We must have been enjoying looking at them too much, because we ended up walking further than we intended, ending up at a gate called Puerto de Toledo. We didn't intend to see it, but it seems quite fitting, because tomorrow we're going on an excursion to Toledo To get back on track, we tried to walk through the Campo del Moro park. This is another beautiful park by the royal palace and it looked like it was criss-crossed by a useful network of paths. We tried to follow them in a direction which we thought would lead us out close to where we wanted to be, but unfortunately several of them were closed for maintenance, so we ended up going round in a big circle and having to retrace our steps. En route though we passed this lawn which was covered in what looked like some sort of parakeets! Eventually we made it back to the centre of town and were able to visit the bookshop, before going back to the apartment for a short break. In the evening we went out once again, this time to a Lebanese restaurant with a group of local Esperanto speakers. The food was excellent and we got to try some different desserts and tea which we would never normally have ordered We've had a great day in Madrid and tomorrow, as mentioned, we're going to travel slightly south to Toledo, a town which looks really beautiful in pictures. Although it may be on a hill
  12. Our flight to Madrid wasn't until 17.15 this afternoon, so we had some free time to spend in Lisbon this morning. We decided to use the time to visit an attraction we hadn't seen yet: Parque Eduardo VII. The park is not far from the centre of Lisbon, and the guidebook said that it had some great views out over the city. We took a metro from the Baixa Chiado station near our apartment to the aptly named station Parque. This turned out to be the most unusual metro station we'd visited in Lisbon, with all sorts of pictures and engravings on the walls. This one seemed to be something to do with exploration of South America. When we came out of the station it wasn't immediately obvious where the park was. The first indication we got was when we caught sigh of this pavillion. From there we climbed up some steps and we were in the park. We'd come for the views, but the first thing which caught our attention was this very odd fountain! Once we turned away from that though, we found the views we'd been expecting We could see all the way down the park towards Lisbon and the river estuary. As you would expect of a park in Lisbon, this one is on quite a steep slope. Fortunately, for once we were actually walking downhill, back towards the town. When you get to the end of the park, there is a huge statue of the Marquis of Pombal. The Marquis of Pombal was the Portuguese prime minister during the eighteenth century and is remembered today for his strong leadership after the 1755 earthquake that destroyed Lisbon. From his statue, we began to walk down Avenida da Liberdade, which is a long boulevard, lined with greenery and statues. We found the monument to the Portuguese fallen in WW1... ...and elaborate water features like this one. Soon we were back in the centre of town. There was just time for one last lunch in Portugal before it was time to start our journey towards the airport. There is a metro line which runs straight to the airport, so the journey was quite easy (although a bit crowded) and excellent value at only €1.65 each for a ticket. We arrived at the airport just after 3pm and everything seemed very straightforward with dropping our bags and security. Unfortunately, once we got through security we realised that our flight was delayed for about 20 minutes. It ended up being delayed by at least half an hour and there wasn't really any explanation, which was a bit frustrating. Boarding the plane seemed to take forever, but eventually we were on our way and we had some really clear views of the Portuguese and Spanish countryside as we flew towards Madrid. Both landscapes looked very mountainous, and some of the Spanish countryside in particular looked very arid. We landed in a sunny Madrid at around 8pm (having lost an hour due to the time difference between Portugal and Spain). It's tempting to complain about the delay, but on the other hand we did only pay €20 each for our flight with TAP, plus another €20 each for the luggage, so it's probably the cheapest flight we've taken in a long time. And we got a free biscuit One thing that was really nice about flying between two Schengen countries was that we didn't have to go through passport control on either side. So there were no long queues once we arrived in Madrid, just a bit of a wait for our luggage to come off the carousel. Madrid's airport is also linked to the city centre via a metro, although the tickets for this one are a bit more expensive (€4.50 each). As luck would have it, the apartment I had booked was not far from where the metro line from the airport terminates, so we were able to get straight onto one train, sit on it for 20 minutes and then arrive in the vicinity of where we were staying. It took a bit of time to find the apartment once we got off the metro... and then when we found the correct building, we had to ring the owners because there was no indication as to which of the multiple flats in the building it might be... but eventually we found it and it seems fine. Tomorrow we're looking forward to seeing some of Madrid, a city which we really loved when we first visited here in 2014, and catching up with some friends
  13. Day 8: Sintra

    Our plan for today was to take a day trip to a town called Sintra. Sintra is situated about 30km outside the centre of Lisbon, in a hilly forested area which is supposed to have a cooler and more pleasant climate than Lisbon itself. It is famous both for its pretty old town and for the unique palaces and castles which are dotted around the surrounding area. It's very easy to get to Sintra via a local train from Lisbon's Rossio station. It only cost us €4.50 each for a return, which seems like a bargain when you're used to buying train tickets in the UK, and the journey took around 40 minutes. The train station is slightly outside the centre of the town and so when we got off the train, we first had to try and navigate our way to the historical centre. The first indication we had that we might be on the right lines was this. This rather spectacular building is Sintra's town hall. Wow! From the town hall, the road led upwards towards the rest of the town centre. As we walked we got a glimpse of this rather unusual building on the horizon... ..as well as this enormous castle which was towering high above the town. Soon we had come quite a distance from the town hall... ...and we were in the centre. At this point we realised that Sintra is an incredibly touristy place. There were herds of tourists travelling around in open top buses, tourist trains and electric buggies (which seem very popular in Portugal, so that tourists can avoid the inconvenience of walking uphill). This meant that the prices of all the restaurants were quite expensive too, at least compared to the amazingly cheap prices we'd experienced earlier in the holiday in Luso. We found somewhere to have lunch in the end though, where we had a nice view of a clock tower in one direction.., ...and what turned out to be the Palace of Sintra in the other. The Palace of Sintra is a very unusual looking building, but apparently is the best preserved medieval royal residence in Portugal. The main reason I'd wanted to come to Sintra was to see a far more exciting palace, however; the Palácio da Pena. Once we'd finished lunch, we began to follow signs towards it, firstly passing the clock tower I'd been admiring while I ate my pizza... ...and then beginning to follow an uphill road. After we'd been walking for a while, we saw a pretty sign for a park and thought it might be nice to explore. No sooner had we stepped inside the gate, however, then we were ambushed by a tourist information man who started explaining to Tim (in Spanish) that this was only a good park to come to if you wanted to have a picnic, and that instead we should be following a path up the hillside behind us. Unbeknown to us, he had directed us onto the Villa Sassetti hiking trail, which leads from the centre of Sintra to the Palácio da Pena. I think the guidebook had assumed that anyone who wanted to visit this palace was going to take some sort of tourist bus, so we had no indication of how much uphill was going to be involved. We soon had some good views out across the surrounding countryside though. Partway up we passed the Villa Sassetti, after which the trail is named. We passed through some formal gardens... ...and then the path became increasingly rocky. Or, at least, surrounded by increasingly large boulders! As we turned around to catch our breath, we realised that behind us we had a brilliant view of the Castelo dos Mouros (Castle of the Moors), which I had dismissed as being too high up to climb to. It didn't look it was that much higher than us now, compared to how it had been back down in Sintra. A few minutes later, we finally, we got our first glimpse of what we were actually walking towards. The palace itself still looked quite a long way away, but we were now within striking distance of the palace gardens. A ticket to go into the palace buildings itself is quite expensive, but for €7.50 each we got a ticket to enter the grounds. And the grounds themselves are quite impressive, although the Portuguese theme of rather murky lakes continued! There was still some uphill ahead of us. By this point I was starting to feel a bit jealous of the people who were whizzing past us in electric buggies We were getting closer though And finally, we were there! The reason I wanted to come and see the palace was that it looked so extraordinary in all the pictures I had seen. It didn't disappoint when I saw it in real life There was originally a monastery on this hilltop site, from some time in fifteenth century, until it was eventually destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. The Portuguese king Ferdinand II acquired the ruins of the monastery in 1838 and decided to transform them into a palace which would serve as a summer residence for the Portuguese royal family. He certainly succeeded in building something which stood out! Without tickets to go inside the palace itself, we were able to get as far as the main gates and enjoy some close up views. We may have taken just a few photos It was late afternoon by this point and we knew we still had a long climb down ahead of us, so eventually we had to turn around and go back through the gate to begin our descent. We walked back down the road rather than take the hiking trail again, which was probably a bit more direct. As we got closer to Sintra, I turned around and saw something that looked familiar on the top of a hill in the distance. Could it be...? Yes, it looked like the 'red' side of the palace where we'd just been It also looked a very long way up, so I began to feel a bit more justified in having tired legs! By the time we got back to the station in Sintra, I was definitely looking forward to a 40 minute sit-down on the train. It was a really exciting day and overall we've had a brilliant time in Portugal. It may have been our first visit here, but I feel like it probably won't be our last. Tomorrow we are changing countries though, with an afternoon flight to Madrid. I like Madrid, but I feel like it's going to struggle to beat this
  14. Day 7: Lisbon

    Today we had a whole day to spend in Lisbon. We started out by retracing our steps from yesterday evening around some of the streets in the upper town. We also succeeded in finding some squares which we hadn't seen yesterday, such as this one which is home to Lisbon's town hall (I think the photo has come out a bit blurry because it was so incredibly sunny!) From the upper town we walked back down towards the waterfront and along to the Praça do Comércio. We walked through the archway and then began exploring the streets of the lower town. There were some really beautiful buildings; some with tiles... ..and some without. From here we climbed upwards a bit towards Lisbon's cathedral. Another cathedral that looks like a castle! We were hoping to climb up to the actual castle which we can see from our apartment window. As we made our way through the streets, I was excited to see some of the old-fashioned yellow trams which still run on the steepest routes in Lisbon. They all looked extremely crowded, though! As we passed through this square, we looked up and realised we could see the ruins of the Carmo Convent, which is just round the corner from our apartment. The convent was destroyed during the 1755 Lisbon earthquake and has never been fully rebuilt. We passed the beautiful Rossio railway station again... ...and round the corner from it found this rather unusual theatre, which seems to have a botanical garden as part of its facade! From here our route was more steeply uphill. This part of Lisbon is called the Alfama, and it's the oldest area of the city. There were lots of beautiful buildings, many with very elaborate tiles. We climbed as far as the castle walls and were hoping to go inside. Unfortunately, the queue for tickets was horrendous and looked like it might involve an hour or so of waiting. Much as we like castles, it didn't seem worth it for that, so we decided to just enjoy exploring the neighbourhood instead. Yesterday I felt like the tiled buildings in Porto were more impressive than the ones in Lisbon, but every street in the Alfama seemed to have a new surprise Some of the tiles were historical... ...while some were religious... ...and some were just wonderful patterns. After walking through the narrow streets for a while we emerged at an unexpected viewpoint over the city. From here we were able to see the monastery of São Vicente de Fora and the Church of Santa Engrácia. We were also able to see an enormous cruise ship, which I suspect might be the reason why the queues for the castle were out of control! We had been going to get lunch at this point, but now that we'd seen this part of the city from afar, we wanted to explore in more detail. First of all we found the enormous monastery, which was originally founded in 1147, although this church dates from the eighteenth century. We walked through an archway beside the monastery and into a busy square where a market was in full swing. The Church of Santa Engrácia was just around the corner from there. This church is well known in Portugal because construction started in 1681, but the building was not fully completed until 1966. It was definitely time for lunch by this point so we set off into the lower town again. We decided to play it safe today and opt for Italian food We did a bit of book-shopping after lunch and then went back to the apartment to cool down and get out of the sun for a bit. Later in the afternoon we ventured out again, intent on visiting the Lisbon suburb of Belém. Belém is quite a way outside of the main centre of town, so we needed to take a train there. We thought we had this all figured out, but when we got to the station things went a bit wrong. We bought tickets and sat on a train which looked to be going in the right direction and which was due to depart in a few minutes. We sat and sat and sat and it didn't go anywhere. There was no audible announcement (in our carriage at least) but everyone else on the train obviously knew something we didn't, because they suddenly all got up and deserted it en masse. We then had to try and find another train bound for Belém, which was difficult when the only departure boards indicating the destination of the trains was in the main hall of the station, which we couldn't access without invalidating our tickets... It took a while, but eventually we found another train and were on our way to Belém. The reason we wanted to visit Belém is that for a small suburb it has lots of interesting monuments. Just outside the station in Belém is this park, featuring a statue to Afonso de Albuquerque, who once ruled Portuguese India. The pink building which you can see in the background is Belém palace, which is home to the president of Portugal. Round the corner from the palace is a beautiful botanical garden which has an enormous avenue of palm trees... ...and some rather unusual ducks. We walked around the botanical gardens for a while and then went to admire the Jerónimos Monastery. It's hard to convey how huge this monastery is because it's barely possible to fit it all in one photo! Monasteries were abolished in Portugal in the nineteenth century and so the building is now used for other things. For example, the EU Treaty of Lisbon was signed in the monastery in 2007. From here we walked right to the far side of Belém because I wanted to see one of the area's most iconic buildings: the Belém Tower. The tower was built in the early sixteenth century as part of a defence system on the river. When it was originally built it was situated on a small island in the river. After the 1755 earthquake, however, the course of the river Tagus changed and the tower is now right by the shore. It's a very elaborate building and we enjoyed looking at it Now that we'd seen the tower, there was only one more big Belém sight to tick off our list: The Monument to the Discoveries. This enormous concrete block was erected in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary since the death of Prince Henry the Navigator, who played an important role in early Portuguese exploration. It's quite a striking monument, with both sides showing a different procession of figures, all connected with Portugal's history of navigation and exploration. It was nearly 7pm by the time we'd finished seeing everything, so time to head back to the apartment. As we turned around from the monument, we realised we had a fantastic view back towards the monastery. We've had a great time in Lisbon today; it's a really beautiful city, and there's so much to see that we've walked nearly 12 miles (and climbed 106 staircases!!!).
  15. Today it was time to leave Coimbra behind and travel to the (hopefully quieter!) Lisbon. I had booked the train tickets in advance and had specifically tried to choose seats which were next to one another on the online train diagram, so I was disappointed when I took them out of my bag this morning and found that I had seat 18, while Tim was in seat 12. I had no idea what I could have done wrong! We checked out of our apartment in Coimbra and walked towards the train station of Coimbra A, where we had to wait for a train to take us to Coimbra B. In the amount of time we spent waiting we could probably have actually walked from one station to the other; the train journey only takes two or three minutes once you're on the train, so I don't think the stations can actually be very far apart. At Coimbra B we then had to wait for the intercity train to Lisbon. It was a bit chaotic when the train arrived, with lots of people trying to get up and down a pretty narrow platform, but we found the carriage we were looking for and stowed our luggage. Then we started looking for our seats. Imagine my surprise when I found that seat 12 and seat 18 were next to each other after all!! Portuguese trains seem to have a rather bizarre numbering system! But we were glad to be unexpectedly sitting together We were on the train for around two hours before we arrived at Lisbon Santa Apolónia. Unlikely all the other train stations we've visited during this holiday, Santa Apolónia has the advantage of actually being located fairly centrally in Lisbon, so we didn't have to search for another train connection on from there. We were supposed to be checking into the apartment at 15.00, so we just about had enough time to get lunch somewhere. We found a place somewhere a few streets away from the station, but it turned out not to be a very inspiring meal. Our table was partly in the sun and under a terrace with a vine, which looked very pretty but meant there were an awful lot of flies. The food itself was okay, but not as good as what we've had elsewhere in Portugal so far. Hopefully we were just unlucky with our choice and the rest of Lisbon will be better! I didn't think it would take us long to get to the apartment, but it turned out to be a bit complicated. First of all we had to negotiate the Lisbon metro system and try to buy tickets which would take us a few stops uphill into the old town. When we arrived at the correct station, there was a seemingly neverending series of escalators to take us from the platform to street level. And then we had to negotiate a rabbit warren of hilly little streets. We made it in the end, about 30 minutes late, and then had to face the next challenge; climbing to the fifth floor with all our luggage. I had realised belatedly when it was too late to cancel the apartment that it was located on the fifth floor of a building with no lift. Quite a few of the reviews which had appeared online since I booked it were complaining about the stairs, in particular saying that they were very steep and narrow. They were indeed very steep and getting the suitcases to the top was a bit of a struggle. Eventually we made it and although I had long since lost count of the number of floors we'd climbed, we got to a point were there were no more stairs. Unfortunately, there was also no sign of any description indicating where the apartment might be. Tim had to call the number on the reservation and - fortunately - it did turn out that we were in the right place. A lady came and unlocked a series of doors, leading us up yet another staircase(!) and into the apartment. Once we'd got our breath back and were able to look out of the windows, it felt like the climb had been worth it though. As well as views out over the estuary, we could see over the roofs of Lisbon towards a castle. After a bit of a rest, we set out to explore Lisbon. Our apartment is located in the Bairro Alto, the upper part of Lisbon which is situated on a hill above the riverfront. A few streets away from the apartment we found ourselves in the square Praça Luís de Camões, which has in its centre a large statue of one of Portugal's poets. As we walked down the neighbouring streets we found a succession of pretty churches... ...and also one of Lisbon's theatres. Our route was taking us downhill into the lower town and towards the sea. Lisbon is situated at the point where the river Tagus enters the sea and despite the fact that it seemed like a calm and sunny day, there were some pretty strong waves here. We strolled along the waterfront for a while, as far as the Praça do Comércio. The statue in the middle of the square is of King José I on a horse, who for reasons which are unclear (to me) appears to be surrounded by snakes. At the far end of the square is the Rua Augusta Arch, which was built to commemorate Lisbon's reconstruction after a devastating earthquake in 1755. From there we walked through some of the busy shopping streets in the lower town and found another pretty square. From here we had a view up towards the castle which we'd seen from our apartment window. Night was starting to fall by this point so we decided we'd better start heading back towards the upper town. We were astonished to find that this beautiful building which we passed on our way is a train station. A series of staircases and winding streets led us back to the upper town. In comparison to some of the streets we've experienced in Porto and Coimbra, Lisbon doesn't actually feel that hilly, but possibly we're just getting used to continually walking up slopes! Our first impressions are that Lisbon is a really beautiful city and we're looking forward to exploring it more tomorrow
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